Arts & Leisure
Posted on December 16, 2015 05:04:00 PM
How Manila’s traffic ruined what would have been a treat for the taste buds
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TRAFFIC TESTS one’s temper, making one yearn for a vacation. But not only does the Metro Manila traffic push our limits, apparently, it affects how a dish tastes as well.
DISCOVERY Shores Boracay and Club Paradise Coron will share a New Year’s Eve menu highlighted by USDA prime Angus beef rib eye served with bone marrow and ending with “Chocolate, Chocolate, and More Chocolate”. Citrus-cured Norwegian salmon served on a block of pink Himalayan salt is the appetizer.
The waiter was quick to serve the appetizer, which had been sitting at the kitchen awaiting my appearance. It was the citrus-cured Norwegian salmon with piquillo pepper soffrito, citrus chive vinaigrette, and compressed melons, served on a block of pink Himalayan salt.
Pretty and dainty, the dish was way too salty, overwhelming the sweetness of the compressed melons and the citrus vinaigrette.
Angelito Bagwan, Discovery Shores Boracay senior sous chef, explained that the appetizer was supposed to be devoured as soon as it was made, or else the fresh fish would absorb the Himalayan salt it was sitting on -- which is exactly what happened that day as the fish waited for my late arrival. On the upside though, he said Himalayan salt has nutritional value because it contains 84 kinds of minerals which are primarily known to lower blood pressure.
Mr. Bagwan assured this writer that at the Boracay resort, guests would get the fresh servings of salmon.
“We thought of making the dish light and fresh to compliment the sunny weather [in Boracay and Palawan]. We’re only capturing the essence of the ocean and translating it on the plate,” said Bruce Kevin Earl Subia, executive chef Club Paradise Palawan, where the dish will also be available.
He said the art of serving food on a salt block has been around for some time. The Japanese introduced it as an ingenious way of partly cooking fresh seafood like salmon, while carefully avoiding making a fish too salty.
The unfortunate appetizer was followed by a creamy yet light soup: lobster “cappucino” with chicken fat croutons, pimento aioli, and shellfish oil paired with a crunchy Chilean sea bass fritter. According to the chefs, the lobster cream soup is one of their best-sellers.
But the folks at the dining table did not finish their soup in anticipation of the sumptuous main course: USDA prime Angus beef rib eye. The gigantic beef chunks were drizzled with burgundy mustard reduction and swimming on a bed of sweet potato-goat cheese mousse, king oyster mushrooms, and haricot verts. If the beef is not enough, there’s a serving of a roasted bone marrow.
As filling as that was, there’s always room for dessert.
“Chocolate, Chocolate, and More Chocolate” ended the lunch in a sweet note. The aptly named dessert plate was featured innocent-looking white and traditional chocolate pralines, which oozed with cocoa juices and liquor mixes once they cracked open. Crushed salted pine nuts and pistachios perfectly balanced the saccharine flavors. The chocolates are best paired with a cup of tea or coffee.
While in the metro the New Year fireworks draw colors in the sky, in Palawan and Boracay, a different sort of celebration will welcome 2016: a heavenly dinner that’s divine, and, as the chefs promised, definitely not salty! -- Nickky Faustine P. de Guzman
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