Kalinga’s ‘tiis-ganda’
A Closer Look At The Tattoos And Jewelry Of The Cordilleras
By Nickky Faustine P. De Guzman with Jessica Rae Nolasco, Photos by Rudy Liwanag
Published: May 27, 2013
NCCA Director Emelita Almosara with South African Ambassador Agnes Nyamande-Pitso and Chanum Foundation President Jordan Mang-osan during the opening of the festival
Romance with tattoos
A Kalinga elder, Natty Sugguiyao, shares on her lecture, “Reinventing Traditional Tattoos of the Cordilleras,” in the 4th Tam-Awan International Arts Festival held in Pinsao, Baguio, that tattooed Kalinga women are regarded beautiful and classy; an inked-skin also enhances one’s sex appeal. The perks of having a skin emblem is synonymous with high regard in society, including the privilege of walking, head held high, on the main street. Unmarked women falter on the sidewalks.
Natty boasts that Kalinga’s treacherous mountains guarded the place from Spanish occupation and influence, hence, Kalinga’s tattooing tradition is immaculate and original.
She also observed that if women of today have tattooed eyebrows and piercings, and go under the knife, Kalinga women also practice the pain of beauty—but the past few years saw a more significant meaning for tattooing: to preserve the declining tradition. The 50-year old lady who got her full sleeved tattoos seven years ago says, “I want to be a living canvas of art,” because of the dramatic decline of the traditional tattooing. In fact, she got her permanent inks from one of the last living female tattoo artists of Kalinga.
The 92-year old Whang-Od is the oldest surviving tattoo artist in Buscalan, Kalinga. She uses charcoal mix and pomelo thorns attached to a wooden stick that is thumped with another stick for the ink to imprint. Whang-od herself is adorned with intricate tattoo designs, which she got when she was young. Since then, she has been using her tattooing skill, which was passed on to her by her ancestors, as her profession. She charges a minimum of 500 pesos from local and foreign tourists. Due to old age, she cannot travel down to the 4th Tam-awan gathering; instead, one of her two remaining apprentices, Kalina Suyam, 55, demonstrated a live traditional tattooing. Today, roughly 50 elders in Kalinga remain as living illustrations of their culture.
With the enduring tradition of tattooing in mind, Kalina became Whang-od’s protégé four years ago. Also permanently inked with elaborate designs that depict bravery and beauty, Kalina says she was 15 years old when she got her first tattoo. She explained through an interpreter, Elizabeth, that her reasons included the prestige of having tattoos and of attracting the opposite sex. Kalina has three children, with the oldest at 26 showing interest in continuing the tradition.
Bastardized tattoos?
Nowadays, pop culture’s practice of tattooing seems to have deviated from the traditional; designs have taken on more current themes. This extends to preferences by visitors to the Kalinga community, who request for a more contemporary flavor incorporated in the traditional design. Unfortunately, this perspective tends to dilute the essence of the traditional Kalinga tattoos. Some designs, too, cannot be tattooed on just anyone who asks for it. For example, an eagle tattooed on the chest signifies bravery in battle. But because there are no more battles to display such courage, there is no reason to apply this tattoo on anyone.
“The Kalinga tattoo revival, by enabling cultural borrowing, appropriation and recontextualization, reinvents both Kalinga identity specifically and Filipino identity more generally. Both practitioners and tattoo clients use traditional tattoos to reinvoke the experiential aspect of tattoos—pain, perforation of the skin and permanence—to construct individual and social identities, what it means to be Filipino in a modernized world,” Analyn Salvador-Amores, PhD argues on her lecture, “Wearing Identities and Reinventing Kalinga Identity: Felt-tip markers, Tattooed T-shirts and Barong Tagalog”.
The fourth Tam-awan Festival dubbed “Jewels of the Cordillera” also tackled heirloom jewelry and accessories, ancient gold and simultaneous workshops on solar drawing, coffee painting, Cordillerian bead making, portrait sketching, and acrylic painting.
National Commission on Culture and Arts (NCCA) Executive Director Emelita Almosara explained that the goal of this event, among others, is to ensure audience development and to reach out to the stakeholders --- the youth in particular, in their sense of obligation to bring them back to knowing what Philippine culture and arts is all about.
This festival is in celebration of the National Heritage Month.